Homemade Pallet for Succulents Plants

It’s time for another succulent planter DIY, and I wanted to make one with pallet wood! Pallets are so fun to use for various reasons. First, you have to love that they are free! But I also love those who are old and old. The weathered wood has such character and takes on a rich patina from countless years under the sun and rain. With the rusty nails, the weathered pallet wood has such a sturdy appeal! And there is something magical in the combination of reclaimed wood and succulents. So-let me show you how I made this pallet planter box for succulents.

DIY Pallet Wood Succulent Planter!

Box Planter Pallet DIY

For this succulent DIY planter, look for a well-weathered palette with a nice grain. Bonus points for rusty nails! Also, look for a pallet where the wooden slats are intact in front and behind. See how the upper corner of this pallet is already practically a planting box? You just have to cut it and add a background.

So, in addition to your palette, you will need:

Saw, manual or motorized. A reciprocating saw is ideal for disassembling pallets.

  • Hammer with claws
  • 1.25″ Finish Nails
  • Slotted screwdriver
  • Sandpaper
  • Water seal by Thompson, Transparent
  • Inexpensive foam or brush
  • Turn it on (or any resistant waterproof glue)
  • Clamps with 4 bars, 6 inches or more
  • Natural foam, Optional – I love this!
  • Juicy soil
  • Juicy!

Cutting through pallet wood

I was very pleased with the look of the wood on both sides on this planter. I had (originally) planned to use it roughly intact and just add a background. So I turned it to the side and cut the vertical 2×4 with Jerry’s Makita cordless saw. It’s a great tool! He lives in the back of our jeep, so we can use him when we find fallen branches, perfect for tree branch planters here. But its true value for pallet projects really shines in the following steps.

Once you cut the 3 2×4 posts, that’s what you have left. At this point, you can make a long planter with two sections. And I think that the 2x4s extending across the sides could form a cool design detail. I decided to reduce my pallet planting box to half that length and cut the 2x4s flush with the sides of the planter. Since I used the widest slats on the pallet and wanted to use the 2x4s as tail pieces, my planter was both tall and narrow. In fact, the depth of the planter is perfect for laying on a windowsill! You can further reduce it at this point depending on your taste or space.

I wanted to keep the rusty nails of the pallet for my pallet planter, so I cut the wide slat just after the 2×4 post. I was so looking forward to keeping the cut close to that amount that I actually cut it, and I left a nasty smart one. So I gave up the idea of keeping the 2x4s and used smaller slats of the pallet for the ends of the planter. But what about my wonderfully rusty nails?

A reciprocating saw with a saw blade for rivets is the ideal tool for disassembling a pallet! Use your slotted screwdriver to move the pieces of wood just enough apart for the saw blade to slide between them.

A reciprocating saw is often called a saw, like cloth and kleenex. If you’re in the market for one, the Makita has a wonderful balance and easy action with a powerful engine. Make sure you get the battery when you get the tool!

The Sawzall with the appropriate nail inlaid wooden blade slice through these nails, now the character I love so much. Sometimes a nail can fall out. Just set it aside to put it back in place.

Again, it is so important to use the right blades to disassemble your pallet. The saw blade at the top right is a wood cutting blade for the reciprocating saw. The one at the bottom left cuts a combination of nails and pallet wood, and you can see the difference in the teeth.

I love the rustic look of this wood! Now it’s time to lightly sand all the places that need it. I don’t bend mine smoothly because I want that very rustic look. But you should eliminate the splinters that are waiting.

Since I originally planned to use the 2x4s as tail pieces, I decided to keep the same dimensions. Therefore, smaller slats of the same planter were used for the ends and the bottom. The length of the bottom has come to the length of the wide side, minus twice the width of the tips. I cut off the end caps to make a butt joint with the sides and bottom of the pallet planter box.

We use a lot of fuel here, so I have it in the tube, which requires a caulking gun. You can also get it in smaller tubes that do not need this tool. You can simply press them by hand. It is a great product that can be easily cleaned, but it has great grip strength and heals very water resistant.

Remember that we use pallet wood here, so expect it to be disfigure. The rod clamps help to make them adhere so well that the glue forms a strong bond.

Apply the Fuze It by hand or with a stick. No need to skimp on this step. I glued the 4 sides together and then squeezed them together. Then I turned the box over and inserted the bottom with glue on all four sides. Use the hammer to put the floor in place if needed. Then turn it to the right up. Clean excess glue before it dries and heals.

Tighten the tweezers tightly and set aside for a good six hours to heal completely.

Remember that a weathered pallet is very dry and thirsty wood. Before you fill it with soil and plants, it is important to seal the wood. Because I wanted to enjoy the weathered wood, I didn’t color or varnish it, though either option works if you prefer. I just used the clear Thompson Water Seal. (There are many colors available, so choose carefully). Use a inexpensive brush or foam brush and apply a full layer of the seal to the inside and outside of your planter. Set the planter aside so that it dries completely for about two hours. Then apply a second layer.

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